My kind of town

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Created on Monday, 07 May 2007 22:30

Panama City: My Kind of Town.

Historian Matthew Parker appreciates a city that looks out as well as back.

Why Panama City?

Because its history has made it outward-looking and incredibly cosmopolitan, with brilliant food and music. And in 20 minutes you can be in the deepest jungle or on a beautiful beach.

What do you miss most when you are away?

Ships at Miraflores: My kind of town, Panama City
At Miraflores you can marvel at huge ships fitting giant locks

The warmth of the people and the climate. Panamanians love to party and to show visitors a good time. I miss the downpours and the proximity of the jungle, the energy, and the sense of being at a crossroads of the world.

What's the first thing you do when you return?

See my friends and catch up with the gossip, something that flourishes in Panama City like almost nowhere else. Everyone knows everyone else, and has an opinion of them - usually scurrilous - that they love to share.

What's the best place to stay?

Most visitors stay in the Cangrejo area, which has plenty of good-value hotels and excellent restaurants, and is a very safe part of town. I stay in the Hotel Marbella (Calle D; 00507 263 2220; from £20).

Where would you meet friends for a drink?

There's been a lot of development along the causeway originally built, with huge difficulty, to protect the entrance to the canal from storms, silting and submarine attack. At one of the several bars at its end, you can sip a cold beer and admire the stunning old city - Casco Viejo - and watching ships queue to enter the Pacific end of the Panama Canal.

What are your favourite places for lunch?

There's a chain of Greek restaurants called Niko's Café, which are amazingly good value and offer lots of local specialities and delicious tropical fruit. Because of the immigration of thousands of labourers to build the canal, there are plenty of Greek, Italian, Spanish, French and Chinese restaurants. Oddly, Panamanians are very fond of dim sum for brunch.

And for dinner?

Manolo's Restaurant (corner of Calle 49 B Oeste and Calle D) is a favourite with everyone. It has a lively diner atmosphere and a good-value menu. Your taxi driver will know this one. The best upmarket restaurant is Barandas at the Bristol Hotel (Calle Aquilino de la Guardia; 265 7844), with modern Panamanian food such as plantain won tons and sea bass in tamarindo sauce. For brilliant Italian food, check out the beautiful and great-value Caffí¨ Pomodoro (Calle 49 B Oeste and Avenida 2 A Norte).

Where would you send a first-time visitor?

To Miraflores, where you can see one of the canal's giant locks close-up, and marvel at how some of the huge ships fit with only inches to spare. There's also an excellent display devoted to the canal's history.

What would you tell them to avoid?

I was strongly warned off visiting Colón, the Atlantic terminal of the canal. When I did go it was with a long-time local, who nevertheless drove around the town with his windows up and doors locked. In Panama City, be sensible and avoid the very poor areas at night.

Public transport or taxi?

Taxis are very cheap, even when you've paid a little extra for not being a local. You can go pretty much anywhere for a dollar or two. Bear in mind, though, that the city does not go in for addresses. You need directions based on landmarks, which can be very complicated.

Handbag or money belt?

Money-belts are unnecessary and unsightly, which is important. Smartness and style mean a lot to Panamanians.

What should I take home?

A bottle of Seco, a rum-like spirit, drunk locally with milk and ice, but decidedly easier to stomach with lime and sugar. Also buy any music that you heard and liked - there's a popular and rather strange duo called Sammy y Sandra Sandoval who play violins and accordions as if their hair was on fire, but make an amazing sound. Best of all is "reggaeton", a sort of Latin reggae, a musical fusion of the city's unique ethnic mix.

And if I've only time for one shop?

Reprosa (next to Plaza Obarrio), which specialises in reproductions of pre-Columbian gold jewellery.

Matthew Parker was born in Central America. He is the author of Panama Fever: the Battle to Build the Canal (Hutchinson, £20).

Written By: Matthew Parker
Source: Telegraph.co.uk
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